The Woodlands Lifestyles and Homes magazine Dec 2009: Wine - Marchesi Antinori, Alessia Antinori,

By Denman Moody

www.denmanswineblog.com

Marchesi Antinori has been a family-owned wine producer in Tuscany since 1385! The current president, Piero Antinori, is one of the five most important wine personalities in the world. He is Tuscany ’s version of Napa’s Robert Mondavi. He has been integral in shaping the modern Italian wine industry “by embracing the past while looking to the future.”

Piero’s daughter Alessia, 26th generation Antinori and an accomplished winemaker in her own right, landed in Houston for a dinner and press luncheon in late October. A distinguished member of one of the great families of Europe, she could not have been more disarming and unpretentious in the presentation of her wines.

Antinori co-founded the super-Tuscan movement in the early ’70s with his Tignanello, first produced in serious quantities in 1975. It was and still is approximately 80 percent native Sangiovese and 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Tignanello ’s big brother, the more expensive Solaia, is approximately 80 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 20 percent Sangiovese. Both are among the top red wines in the world.

The wines I tasted with Alessia are great examples of the magic worked by the Antinori clan:

Bramito Castello della Sala 2008 – Fermented in oak for a few months, 100 percent malolactic, and then aged in bottle for a few more months. Very attractive and with no further oak aging in barrel, tastes like some of the luscious-fruit, unoaked Chardonnays being made in California and Australia. $35

Antica Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006 – This is the third vintage from Antinori’s Napa facility. It is named for Antinori and California (Antica). It displays rich, ripe fruit with black currants and black cherries, excellent structure and a lovely finish.

Guado Al Tasso Bolgheri 2006 – From the currently “hot” Maremma area in Tuscany, this beauty is 65 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30

Worley was a registered nurse. If in New Zealand, serve with green lipped mussels. $20

Chamisal Vineyards Chardonnay Edna Valley Califa Selection 2007 – Ripe citrus nose with hints of figs, pears and pineapple. Aged 14 months in 60 percent new French oak, which has beautifully integrated with the wine. Close to perfection. $39

Palmaz Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 – Limited and luscious. $45

Red

Tamás Double Decker Red Central Coast 2007 – Nice, affordable surprise here. All-purpose red. $14

Blackstone Rubric Sonoma Reserve 2007 – 55 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 14 percent Malbec, 8 percent Cabernet Franc, 8 percent Petit Verdot, 7 percent Tannat, 5 percent Merlot and 3 percent Petite Sirah. A unique blend that works. An absolute “best buy” for an under-$25 Bourdeaux-type (with the obvious exceptions) blend. $22.99

Macari Estate Merlot North Fork of Long Island 2005 – Here’s one to serve blind with a Pomerol or other well-known Merlot at twice or three times the price. My food choice: roast duck or chicken. Wow! $25

Palmaz Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon “Gaston” Napa Valley 2005 – An impressive Christmas gift for your doctor from Dr. Palmaz, the famous cardiologist whose patented stints built his fabulous underground Napa winery. It must be seen to be believed, and one expects that James Bond will appear in one of the tunnels approximately 18 stories underground. One of the first impressive releases from noted wine consultant Mia Kline. Fabulous now, it will improve in your or your donee ’s cellar for several years into the future. $150l

percent Merlot and 5 percent Syrah. Refined and elegant, this offering is food-friendly plus, and has a rare balance of all components. The Guado, along with Tignanello and Solaia, pretty much quell the arguments I still hear about not “destroying” the native tastes and terroirs by using Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. $95

Recently tasted great values:

White

Cupcake Riesling Yakima Valley (Washington) 2008 – Very nice, appley flavors and appealing taste with around .9 percent natural residual sugar, but tasting less sweet (around threshold) because of balancing acidity. $12.99

Blackstone Chardonnay Sonoma Reserve 2008 – Fresh pineapple and citrus with a rich mouthfeel and a clean, bright finish. The best Chardonnay under $15 I ’ve tasted this year. $14.99

Mudhouse Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough (New Zealand) 2009 – Lovely notes of grapefruit and passion fruit with crisp acidity. Perfect with a goat cheese crostini. Before obtaining a degree in oenology and nursing this wine to near perfection, winemaker Nadine

Denman Moody is the former publisher of Moody’s Wine Review, which the Washington Post said was “...certainly the best publication in this country for tracking the state of rare and exotic wines. ” He was also the contributing editor on rare wines for the International Wine Review in New York from 1984-1990. He is currently a freelance wine writer and wine consultant. denmanmoody@gmail.com